Plumbing Is Going Green! Start with Simple Upgrades to Your Faucets and Showerheads

December 1st, 2010

When people talk about “green building”, they’re typically referring to energy-efficient heating and cooling appliances, insulated walls and windows, and sustainable materials. But these days “green plumbing” is getting increasing attention – and rightly so, because water consumption is a major factor in the environmental footprint of any building! The green plumbing movement is being led by drought-prone Australia, where it’s even possible for plumbers to earn a Green Plumbing Certification.

“Green plumbing” helps the environment by doing one or more of the following:

  • Saving water
  • Saving energy
  • Using environmentally-friendly materials

In the US, LEED Certification is becoming increasingly popular, which means that green plumbing systems are being installed in many new or substantially renovated buildings. But green plumbing improvements don’t have to be big and expensive. In fact, they start at under $20.

Over the course of the next few blog posts, we’ll look at a range of green plumbing upgrades – some that you can do yourself, and others that require professional assistance.

In this first post of our “Green Plumbing” series, we’ll look at the simplest and most affordable green plumbing upgrade you can make: installing low-flow faucet accessories and showerheads.

How do low-flow showerheads and faucet accessories work?

Low-flow showerheads and faucet accessories (often referred to as aerators, which is the most popular type) attach to existing fixtures. Normal-flow showerheads use about six to seven gallons per minute (GPM), and the water comes out at about 80 psi (lbs per square inch, a measure of pressure). Of course, if you try to use less water with a normal showerhead, the stream is flat and insubstantial – a very unsatisfactory shower experience. Low-flow showerheads solve this problem by forcing the water into a narrower opening, which reduces the amount of water that comes out, but maintains the pressure at 80 psi for a nice strong stream. (It’s like partially blocking the end of a hose with your thumb to increase the force of the water coming out – except that low-flow faucets and showerheads reduce the size of the stream only a little, just enough to maintain existing pressure with less water.)

Low-flow faucet accessories work the same way.

There are two different kinds of low-flow faucets and showerheads:

  • Aerating faucet accessories and showerheads mix air into the water stream for steady pressure. The steady stream sensation is very popular with consumers. However, mixing air into the water can lead to a reduction in water temperature, which can be a drawback for showers during the winter months.
  • Non-aerating faucet accessories and showerheads don’t mix air into the water, which results in a pulse-like rather than a steady-state stream. Not everyone likes the pulse effect, but those who do say it feels like a gentle massage. Non-aerating faucet accessories and showerheads maintain water temperature very well.

How can you tell if you need a low-flow faucet or showerhead?

The EPA standard for new residential lavatory (bathroom) faucets is 1.5 GPM (gallons per minute). Your current faucet may have an aerator on it already, and if it does, it will have the GPM stamped on the side. If the GPM of your existing aerator is greater than 1.5, you should upgrade to a new high-efficiency faucet aerator. If you don’t have an aerator, check to see if the inside of your faucet has threads (grooves) for an aerator to be screwed into it. If it does, install an aerator.

If you already have a low-flow showerhead, check the side of the showerhead to see if it has a flow rate of 2.0 GPM (the new EPA standard for showers). If you don’t already have a low-flow showerhead, you can test your shower to see if its flow rate is too high. Put a two-quart saucepan on the floor of the shower and position it in the middle of the shower stream. Turn the shower on at full pressure and count how many seconds it takes to fill the pan. If it takes fewer than 15 seconds, you would probably benefit from a high-efficiency showerhead.

How much water will a high-efficiency faucet or showerhead save?

It depends on how much water your sink or shower used before you installed the upgrade. The only way to know for sure is to check your utility bills over the next few months and compare them to the same time period during the previous year. If you want to feel good about your decision right away, you can get a rough estimate as follows: assume that your current showerhead uses 2.5 GPM (this is a very common flow rate for modern showerheads). A new 1.5 GPM showerhead will make your shower 40% more efficient. Use your utility bill to calculate 20% of your total water usage (this is the amount typically used for showering), then take 40% of that number. Multiply this by your cost-per-gallon, and you’ll have your savings!

How do I find high-efficiency faucet accessories and showerheads?

When you go to your local plumbing supply store, look for the EPA WaterSense label. This is the equivalent of the EnergyStar label, and all products bearing this label meet the new EPA water use guidelines.

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We’re Grateful for Central Heating and Indoor Plumbing

November 25th, 2010

The holiday season is upon us again – a time for celebrating with family and friends, and remembering our many blessings.

Of course, the most important of these are the love of our family and friends and the food that nourishes us. We hope these blessings are shared by all our customers.Baby Sleeping By Fire in a Comfortable Home With Central Heating

As the weather gets colder, we are grateful, too, for the comfort of our homes. It’s worth remembering that even the simplest of our modern homes are full of luxuries that people of centuries past could not even have imagined.

Take central heating, for example, which did not become widespread until the 20th century (although it was actually invented by the Romans). Here in the New World, early European settlers emulated the practices of the Native Americans, heating their homes with an open indoor fire and keeping out the cold with brightly-woven mats and furs. The houses stayed surprisingly warm during the winter (sometimes getting as hot as 90 degrees F, especially in the wigwams, which were better insulated than the colonists’ dwellings). But tending the fire was a tedious, time-consuming, dirty, and somewhat dangerous task – and as anyone who has ever made breakfast over a campfire will tell you, cooking three meals a day over an open flame was very challenging.

Indoor plumbing is another invention that early natives and settlers could not have imagined (although again, it had been invented long before by the ingenious Romans). During the long and arduous voyage to the New World, European colonists relieved themselves by sitting on shelves that jutted out over the sides of the ship; when they reached the New World, they simply went outdoors to do their business, even in the dead of winter. Even outhouses were luxuries in the early years. Baths were uncommon (sometimes a once-a-year event) and were not taken at all on board ship. When colonists did wash, they did so in a nearby stream or pond.

So, the next time you press a button on your thermostat to turn on the heat, or flush your toilet, or take a nice warm shower, or cook a meal on a temperature-controlled oven – give thanks!

We’re grateful for the opportunity to help you keep your home warm, safe, and comfortable. Our customers are one of the many blessings for which we are thankful – now and all year long.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

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How to Cover Your Air Conditioner for the Winter

November 23rd, 2010

This time of year, it seems that you’re covering almost everything. You’re wrapping up in hats and scarves and you’re putting frost blankets over your garden plants at night. You might even be covering a beloved boat, motorcycle, or summer convertible.

If you have an outdoor air conditioner that won’t be used during the winter months, you might be wondering if you should cover it, too. The answer is – yes!

Air conditioner in snow

Air conditioners don't like to be left out in the cold!

Covering your air conditioner is one of the best ways to protect your investment and keep future costs down. Here’s why:

  • Covering your outdoor air conditioner provides maximum protection against debris (leaves, branches, acorns, pine needles, sand, and salt).
  • A cover stops precipitation from getting into the system, then freezing and expanding. (Also, if you live near the ocean, it keeps out salty water and air.)
  • An air conditioner cover minimizes the possibility of damage during storms, when tree branches or hail may fall on the unit and chip the paint or bend the fins on the grille.
  • You’ll increase the efficiency of your air conditioner by keeping the condensing coil clean (good for the environment and for your wallet!)
  • You’ll have less cleaning and repairing to do next spring – and your maintenance costs will be lower!

Covering your air conditioner will extend its life and reduce its operating costs. But…you need to be smart about how you cover your outdoor AC. If you cover it with plastic, you may trap moisture around the unit, creating ideal conditions for rust, mold, and mildew. This is especially a concern on those sunny winter days when the air inside the cover will heat up to be much hotter than the outside air. Also, a plastic cover can create a very cozy place for rodents and insects to spend the winter. Once they’re inside the cover, it won’t take them long to find their way into the equipment itself.

You should make sure to choose a cover made of breathable material – NOT plastic. The cover should also have appropriate ventilation to ensure that moisture doesn’t build up.

How do you choose the best cover for your air conditioner? Consult your owner’s manual, and contact us for advice. We’ll be happy to help.

Also, make sure to schedule a service appointment for the spring, before you start your unit up again. The service will include a thorough cleaning of any debris that did find its way into your unit, plus a check for any damage to the fins. We’ll also check that the pipe insulation is in good shape and that the unit is level – two simple but important things that can improve your unit’s functioning and efficiency.

P.S. If you have a window AC unit, the ideal solution is to take it out for the winter instead of covering it.

This time of year, it seems that you’re covering almost everything. You’re wrapping up in hats and scarves and you’re putting frost blankets over your garden plants at night. You might even be covering a beloved boat, motorcycle, or summer convertible.

If you have an outdoor air conditioner or heat pump unit that won’t be used during the winter months, you might be wondering if you should cover it, too.

It seems like a simple question, but in fact it generates a fair amount of controversy.

Almost everyone thinks that it’s advisable to cover outdoor AC and heat pump units rather than leaving them completely exposed to the elements. However, not everyone approves of covering the units completely.

On the one hand, putting a full cover on an outdoor air conditioner or heap pump provides maximum protection against debris (leaves, branches, sand, and salt). A cover also stops water from getting into the system and then freezing and expanding in there. Plus, a full cover minimizes the possibility of damage during storms, when tree branches or hail may fall on the unit and chip the paint or bend the fins on the grille.

On the other hand, completely covering outdoor air conditioners and heat pumps can trap moisture around the unit, creating ideal conditions for rust, mold, and mildew. This is especially a concern on those sunny winter days when the air inside the cover will heat up to be much hotter than the outside air. Also, a cover can create a very cozy place for rodents and insects to spend the winter. Once they’re inside the cover, it won’t take them long to find their way into the equipment itself.

One common way to cover air conditioners and heat pumps is simply to place a piece of plywood across the top of the unit, weighted down with cinderblocks (bricks and smaller rocks have can been reported to blow off in strong winds). This will keep out the worst of the precipitation and debris, but will still leave the unit well-ventilated. And, there will be no place for moisture or vermin to linger!

If you do opt for a full cover for your heat pump or air conditioner, make sure that it is not plastic. The cover should be made of a breathable material, and should be vented to prevent the buildup of hea

This time of year, it seems that you’re covering almost everything. You’re wrapping up in hats and scarves and you’re putting frost blankets over your garden plants at night. You might even be covering a beloved boat, motorcycle, or summer convertible.

If you have an outdoor air conditioner or heat pump unit that won’t be used during the winter months, you might be wondering if you should cover it, too.

It seems like a simple question, but in fact it generates a fair amount of controversy.

Almost everyone thinks that it’s advisable to cover outdoor AC and heat pump units rather than leaving them completely exposed to the elements. However, not everyone approves of covering the units completely.

On the one hand, putting a full cover on an outdoor air conditioner or heap pump provides maximum protection against debris (leaves, branches, sand, and salt). A cover also stops water from getting into the system and then freezing and expanding in there. Plus, a full cover minimizes the possibility of damage during storms, when tree branches or hail may fall on the unit and chip the paint or bend the fins on the grille.

On the other hand, completely covering outdoor air conditioners and heat pumps can trap moisture around the unit, creating ideal conditions for rust, mold, and mildew. This is especially a concern on those sunny winter days when the air inside the cover will heat up to be much hotter than the outside air. Also, a cover can create a very cozy place for rodents and insects to spend the winter. Once they’re inside the cover, it won’t take them long to find their way into the equipment itself.

One common way to cover air conditioners and heat pumps is simply to place a piece of plywood across the top of the unit, weighted down with cinderblocks (bricks and smaller rocks have can been reported to blow off in strong winds). This will keep out the worst of the precipitation and debris, but will still leave the unit well-ventilated. And, there will be no place for moisture or vermin to linger!

If you do opt for a full cover for your heat pump or air conditioner, make sure that it is not plastic. The cover should be made of a breathable material, and should be vented to prevent the buildup of heat and moisture.

How do you decide how best to cover your air conditioner or heat pump? Consult your owner’s manual, and call us for advice. We’ll be happy to help.

No matter how you decide to cover your heat pump or air conditioner, you should contact us to schedule a service appointment in the spring, before you start your unit up again. The service will include a thorough cleaning of any debris that did find its way into your unit, plus a check for any damage to the fins. We’ll also check that the pipe insulation is in good shape and that the unit is level – two simple but important things that can improve your unit’s functioning and efficiency.

P.S. If you have a window AC unit, the ideal solution is to take it out for the winter instead of covering it.

t and moisture.

How do you decide how best to cover your air conditioner or heat pump? Consult your owner’s manual, and call us for advice. We’ll be happy to help.

No matter how you decide to cover your heat pump or air conditioner, you should contact us to schedule a service appointment in the spring, before you start your unit up again. The service will include a thorough cleaning of any debris that did find its way into your unit, plus a check for any damage to the fins. We’ll also check that the pipe insulation is in good shape and that the unit is level – two simple but important things that can improve your unit’s functioning and efficiency.

P.S. If you have a window AC unit, the ideal solution is to take it out for the winter instead of covering it.

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Geothermal – Get It Done Right!!!

November 10th, 2010

As we wrote in last week’s blog post, everyone at Carney Plumbing, Heating & Cooling is really excited about geothermal energy systems. But…geothermal only works well when it’s installed correctly. If it’s not, then the geothermal system you install could wind up being nothing more than expensive waste of money – and you might even end up using more energy than you did before, not less.

In this blog post, we’ll explain how we make sure that we install geothermal systems properly so that our customers enjoy maximum comfort and savings.

To explain the secret to a successful geothermal installation, first we should explain how geothermal systems work.Arrows and blocks

Although the temperature above the ground can vary widely from summer to winter, the temperature underneath the ground stays fairly constant all year round, thanks to the hot molten rock that underlies the earth’s surface. Depending on latitude, the level of volcanic activity in the area, and the depth at which the geothermal system is installed, the underground temperature can range from 45 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Geothermal systems use underground pipes, called a loop, that circulate fluid in a loop into your house and back under the ground. In the winter, the loop brings heat up from the ground into your house, where it is distributed throughout your house via ductwork. In the summer, the loop pulls the hot air out of your house and discharges it underground.

So, what’s the secret to a successful geothermal installation? The most important thing is to correctly calculate the load (i.e. the number of BTUs the system has to generate to keep the house comfortable). This will ensure that the geothermal loop, and the equipment that keeps the fluid moving in the loop, are properly sized. If a contractor has cut corners by making the loop and the circulation equipment too small, the system will not keep your home comfortable.

At Carney, we receive a couple of calls every month from worried homeowners who are not comfortable with the geothermal systems they’ve had installed by other companies. When a Carney technician goes to check it out, we almost always find that the loop and the equipment are not big enough to properly regulate the temperature of the home. Although the smaller loop may reduce the cost of the initial installation, this is a false savings. A homeowner will have to supplement an improperly functioning geothermal system with other means, or sacrifice comfort – and the home’s overall energy consumption might even go up, not down, as a result! At Carney, we call this “getting geothermal in name only”, and we’re always upset when we see homeowners who’ve had this happen to them.

So how do we make sure this never happens to our customers? We start by making sure that all our technicians are fully trained. In addition to mandatory training, we encourage our technicians to sign up for whatever additional training they want – on us.

We also take great care when we design our geothermal systems – in fact, we probably spend more time on design than we do on actual installation. We do all our load calculations by computer and by hand so that we are sure of our results. And we get as many different minds working on the design as possible – for example, we ask drillers to provide their own independent assessments to make sure they tally with ours.

Our philosophy when it comes to geothermal is, “You cannot cut any corners.” We make sure we don’t – we pay attention to all the details so that when your geothermal system is done, all you have to do is relax and enjoy it!

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Top Ten Reasons to Love Geothermal Heating and Cooling Systems

November 3rd, 2010

Here at Carney Plumbing, Heating & Air Conditioning, we’ve been installing geothermal systems for more than a year now. Our entire team is really enthusiastic about them. Our customers rave about the savings and comfort that they get when they upgrade to a geothermal heating and cooling system, and we’re excited to bring this leading-edge technology to the residential consumer.

Geothermal requires an upfront investment, but it’s worth it! Here’s why we love it:

Geothermal offers great green savings for your family!

 

  1. 70% of the energy used by a geothermal system is renewable (using the earth’s own heat). The rest comes from electric power. A geothermal system makes a huge difference in your carbon footprint.
  2. You’ll never buy foreign oil again. In fact, you’ll never buy oil again, period. One of our first geothermal customers had been burning 5-6 tanks of oil a year (1400-1600 gallons). After installing an all-electric geothermal system, not only did he have no more oil bills, but his overall electric bill was reduced too.
  3. Like to buy local? You can’t get more local than geothermal – 70% of your heating and cooling energy comes from right underneath your feet.
  4. You will increase your home’s safety by not storing fossil fuel on the premises.
  5. You’ll be much less affected by volatility in fuel prices. Remember the high oil prices of a couple of years ago? Consumers in southeastern Pennsylvania may soon see a similar increase when local utilities are deregulated in January 2011 – anywhere from 10% to 40%. With a geothermal system, you’ll feel spikes in energy prices much less.
  6. You can get rid of your old, high-maintenance oil-burning heater and replace it with new, long-lasting geothermal equipment that is designed to last for 20 years.
  7. All of our geothermal customers report that they are now more comfortable in their homes.
  8. Geothermal systems are ultra quiet. They’re installed inside (generally in a basement) so there are no noisy outdoor units.
  9. Federal tax credits for conventional heating systems will run out at the end of 2010, but tax credits for geothermal systems will last until 2016. Also, local utilities frequently offer rebates on geothermal systems.
  10. Carney’s offering a $300 discount on all geothermal heat pump systems!

Our own Kevin Carney was recently interviewed on ACHR. Check out the audio podcast to hear more about his experiences with geothermal systems and his commitment to quality geothermal installations:

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Halloween Treat – $100 Off a New Sump Pump With Battery Backup

October 28th, 2010

What’s scarier than a cold and stormy Halloween night?

A cold and stormy Halloween night when the power cuts out and the water starts to rise in your basement!

Fortunately, we’ve got just the right solution – at a real treat of a price.

A storm passing through a neighborhood

A sump pump keeps your basement dry when a storm comes through your neighborhood!

If your basement regularly gets damp or flooded, eventually it’s going to start looking and smelling like one of those musty old basements in a cheap horror movie. Sump pumps are a great way to protect your home and maximize its usable area.

A battery backup system makes sure that your sump pump works when you need it most – during and after major storms. Battery backup doesn’t add much to the cost of a sump pump – and the peace of mind it gives you is priceless!

Get $100 off a new sump pump with battery backup!

P.S. Happy Halloween, everyone. Have fun and stay safe!

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It’s Easy to Prevent Burst Pipes This Winter

October 20th, 2010

Burst pipes are expensive, destructive, and…preventable.

Most people know that they need to winterize the plumbing in a camp or vacation home to keep it from freezing over the winter and bursting the pipes. But you also need to winterize the plumbing in your primary residence, even if you’re going to stay there all winter.

A burst pipe - what you want to avoid this winter

Burst pipes - easier to avoid than you think!

This is really one of those situations where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure – and the prevention is easy.

The right pro-active maintenance will keep your home’s pipes warm and cozy all winter, so that you and your possessions stay comfortable and DRY!

Here’s how you do it:

1. Insulate exposed pipes

Check to see if you have exposed piping in un-insulated spaces such as a crawlspace, attic, outside walls, etc.

If you have exposed piping, you should insulate the pipes. The materials are inexpensive and the task doesn’t require a high level of DIY skill. However, it does require patience and care to ensure that pipes are completely covered.

There are a number of different options for insulating pipes. You can wrap regular fiberglass attic insulation around pipes, but an easier alternative is the foam or fiberglass tubing (also called “tubular sleeve insulation”) that is made specifically for pipes. You should look for insulation with an R-4 rating (most standard 5/8 foam tubes have this rating).

Whatever insulation you use, make sure you begin by removing any dirt or grease from the pipes with a rag and mild cleanser. Allow the pipes to dry thoroughly before wrapping them with insulation. Make sure you cover the pipe completely, taking extra care at corners wherever two sleeves or pieces of insulation meet. Wrap these areas with duct tape to seal them completely.

(Always use duct tape to secure the insulation to your pipes. Other forms of tape, like masking or electrical, will stretch or break over time. You’ll lose the integrity of your seal, and eventually you’ll have to tape the pipes all over again.)

If you have pipes that have frozen in past winters, or pipes in spaces that will fall below zero, you may wish to consider using heating tape. It is a plastic strip with heating elements embedded in it that can be wrapped around pipes and plugged in. Heating tape is easy to install and can be purchased in most hardware stores. While it is effective, it can be expensive to operate and so should only be used when regular insulation is not enough.

Note: When you’re looking for exposed pipes to insulate, focus on pipes where the water comes in, not pipes where the water drains. Drain pipes – except for the traps beneath sinks, tubs, and showers – generally do not hold enough water to cause damage if frozen.

2. Caulk outside pipes

Caulk around pipes where they enter your house from the outside. There are lots of different types of caulk, so check with your plumber or local hardware store to find out which type will be best for your home.

3. Shut off and drain exterior faucets (or insulate them)

First, go down to your basement and locate the shut-off valve for each exterior faucet. Turn the valve so that the water supply is shut off. Then, go outside and turn the faucet on, so that any remaining water drains out of the faucet. (You can leave the faucet in the on position all winter.)

Not all faucets have a separate shut-off valve in the basement. Check with your plumber if you’re unsure.

If you can’t shut off and drain your exterior faucets, you should insulate them. The easiest, most attractive, and most effective way to insulate them is with molded foam insulating covers. These are available at most hardware stores.

And…don’t forget to drain your hoses and bring them inside for the winter! You should also drain and shut down your sprinkler system (follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

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Easy Do’s and Don’ts for Winterizing Your Heating and Cooling System

October 13th, 2010

Like it or not, winter’s coming! And we guarantee you’ll enjoy winter a whole lot more (or at least hate it a whole lot less) if your heating system is working optimally.

Getting your heating system ready for winter will make the winter cozy and fun!

Getting your heating system ready for winter will make the winter cozy and fun!

Furnace maintenance is actually very easy – much easier than dealing with a major repair. These simple “to-dos” take about half an hour to complete, and are well worth your time. You’ll save money, avoid annoying and expensive breakdowns, and help keep your family safe and comfortable all winter long.

And, our list of “don’ts” will help you avoid mistakes that can cause equipment breakdowns and endanger your loved ones.

(As a bonus, these do’s and don’ts will help your air conditioning system survive the winter in great shape so that it’s ready to go when summer returns!)

  • DO…Call for your annual service ASAP, if you haven’t yet.
  • DO…Remove flammable items that may have been stored next to the furnace over the summer (weed whackers, lawn movers, gas cans, etc).
  • DO…Change/clean your air filter regularly, especially during heavy use seasons (winter and summer). You should replace disposable fiberglass filters, and wash electrostatic or electronic filters, at least every three months, and more often if they look dirty. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool (a waste of energy). A clean filter will keep dirt and dust out of your system, increasing its longevity and reducing the need for expensive repairs.
  • DO…Check your thermostat programming to make sure it reflects your family’s current schedule. This will help you reduce energy costs.
  • DO…Check your chimney to make sure there are no cracks or loose bricks.
  • DO…Remove window AC units, and cover outside AC units to minimize damage from winter weather and debris (you can buy a cover at your local hardware store).
  • DO…Install a carbon monoxide detector next to your sleeping area.
  • DON’T…Try to service your heating system on your own. Leave it to qualified professionals!
  • DON’T…Wait for the first cold night to turn on your furnace for the first time. Test your heater for a few minutes while it’s still warm out (like in early September), to make sure that it’s working well on the first cold day. Also, if it’s warm, you can comfortably open the windows to disperse that “first time” smell.
  • DON’T…Try to turn on the heat while the thermostat is still set in AC mode. Just setting the dial above room temperature won’t activate the heat if the system is still in AC mode.
  • DON’T…Cover outside AC units with plastic. Plastic traps moisture and can lead to rust and deterioration. Instead, use a cover specifically designed for outdoor AC units.
  • DON’T…Assume that because you have a carbon monoxide detector, you don’t need to schedule a furnace inspection. A carbon monoxide detector should be a second line of defense, not a substitute for annual service.
  • DON’T…turn off the heat when it’s cold out, even if you are leaving your house for several days. Set the thermostat to at least 55 degrees so that your house stays warm enough to keep your pipes from freezing.

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Why You Should Get a Fall Tune-Up
…Even If You’d Rather Not Think About It

October 8th, 2010
A Carney furnace tune-up will give you peace of mind!

A Carney furnace tune-up will give you peace of mind!

Let’s be honest here. Unless you’re an HVAC contractor, you’re probably not particularly interested in your heating system. And that may lead you to skimp on routine maintenance.

But…if you really want to think about your heating system as little as possible, then routine maintenance is exactly what you need.

Limited time offer: Gas Furnace or Heat Pump Tune-Up – only $99!!

According to a study conducted by the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service, 9 out of 10 HVAC system failures are caused by dirt and dust. That means that if you hire a professional to clean and service your furnace, and you change your furnace’s air filter once a month, you are 90% less likely to have a breakdown this year!

This, of course, is terrific news for your budget. Not only will you save by minimizing the possibility of a major repair, you’ll also increase your heater’s efficiency, which means lower energy bills this winter.

And that means more money for that new car, the kids’ college tuition, or (just maybe) your dream vacation.

But even better than that, routine maintenance leads to peace of mind. You’ll have less hassle, less worry, and a lot more time relaxing cozily in your house, doing whatever you want to do, while your heater minds its own business in your basement.

So, now that you’re persuaded…what routine maintenance do you need?

You should get an annual tune-up/inspection every year. A good furnace tune-up will include:

  • Checking the thermostat to ensure that the settings are comfortable and energy-efficient
  • Checking all electrical connections, motors, and controls
  • Testing the pilot light and the ignition
  • Lubricating the blower bearings and blower motor as recommended by the manufacturer
  • Cleaning dust from the blower compartment
  • Inspecting gas or oil connections, gas pressure, and burner combustion
  • Inspecting the heat exchanger to make sure it’s not leaking carbon monoxide
  • Checking the pilot light if the furnace has one
  • Testing air flow
  • Checking vents, drafts, and flues
  • Checking for gas leaks
  • Checking the safety components, such as limit controls and pilot safety; and
  • Inspecting the condensate drain (if the system includes central air)

Then, there are a few simple things you should do yourself.

  • Make sure nothing flammable has been stored next to the furnace over the summer (weed whackers, lawn movers, gas cans, etc).
  • Give the outside of your furnace a good dusting (also, dust the areas near it).
  • Test your heater for a few minutes while it’s still warm out (like in early September), to make sure that it’s working well on the first cold day. Also, you can comfortably open the windows to disperse that unpleasant “first time” smell.
  • Make sure that your thermostat is set in the heating mode when heating season starts. Just setting the dial above room temperature won’t activate the heat if the system is still in AC mode.
  • Change/clean your air filter regularly, especially during heavy use seasons (winter and summer). You should replace disposable fiberglass filters, and wash electrostatic or electronic filters, at least every three months, and more often if they look dirty. A dirty filter will slow down air flow and make the system work harder to keep you warm or cool (a waste of energy). A clean filter will keep dirt and dust out of your system, increasing its longevity and reducing the need for expensive repairs.
  • Install a carbon monoxide (CO) detector near your bedroom, and test it monthly. (Tip: do this whenever you change your air filter. And replace the batteries each year when you test your heater.) Please note that a CO detector should be a second line of defense, not a substitute for an annual furnace inspection.

Everything on the list above should take you about half an hour a year, in total. That’s a pretty minimal amount of time in exchange for months and months of worry-free operation!

PS. Everyone is suddenly interested in their heating system if it’s the first cold night and their furnace doesn’t work. This is not the time to schedule a tune-up. Do it now and beat the rush!

Call Carney at 215-346-7160 or contact us online to schedule an appointment.

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Pennsylvania Home Heating Rebates!

August 20th, 2010

Effective August 2, 2010 – the second phase of the Pennsylvania Home Heating Rebate Program has enhanced the monetary rebates provided by the Commonwealth to homeowners who replace their current, less efficient home heating systems and water heaters with new high efficiency, energy saving models!  The new ceiling for natural gas, propane gas and oil heating systems is now $1,000 (a $500 increase over the previous amount)!  Additionally, the Commonwealth has increased the rebate for Energy Star Qualified water heaters to $250 for tank style water heaters and $300 for tankless water heaters!

Families across Pennsylvania are taking advantage of the PA Home Heating Rebate Program.

Families across Pennsylvania are taking advantage of the PA Home Heating Rebate Program.

Details on qualifying models, updates on the programs and other information can be found at the Pennsylvania Home Heating Rebate Qualifying Products Page.

Carney Plumbing, Heating & Cooling continues to install dozens of tankless water heaters and home heating systems that qualify for these rebates and the Federal Tax Credit (up to $1,500) every week!  These two rebates alone save homeowners $2,500 towards the replacement of their older, less efficient heaters.

BUT ACT NOW! As of August 20th, the funding for this program was nearly 1/3 exhausted, additionally – the Federal Tax Credit is scheduled to expire on December 31st and there are no current plans to extend it.  Call Carney today at 215.346.7160.

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