Carney All Seasons Blog: Archive for the ‘Plumbing’ Category

Plumbing Is Going Green! Start with Simple Upgrades to Your Faucets and Showerheads

Wednesday, December 1st, 2010

When people talk about “green building”, they’re typically referring to energy-efficient heating and cooling appliances, insulated walls and windows, and sustainable materials. But these days “green plumbing” is getting increasing attention – and rightly so, because water consumption is a major factor in the environmental footprint of any building! The green plumbing movement is being led by drought-prone Australia, where it’s even possible for plumbers to earn a Green Plumbing Certification.

“Green plumbing” helps the environment by doing one or more of the following:

  • Saving water
  • Saving energy
  • Using environmentally-friendly materials

In the US, LEED Certification is becoming increasingly popular, which means that green plumbing systems are being installed in many new or substantially renovated buildings. But green plumbing improvements don’t have to be big and expensive. In fact, they start at under $20.

Over the course of the next few blog posts, we’ll look at a range of green plumbing upgrades – some that you can do yourself, and others that require professional assistance.

In this first post of our “Green Plumbing” series, we’ll look at the simplest and most affordable green plumbing upgrade you can make: installing low-flow faucet accessories and showerheads.

How do low-flow showerheads and faucet accessories work?

Low-flow showerheads and faucet accessories (often referred to as aerators, which is the most popular type) attach to existing fixtures. Normal-flow showerheads use about six to seven gallons per minute (GPM), and the water comes out at about 80 psi (lbs per square inch, a measure of pressure). Of course, if you try to use less water with a normal showerhead, the stream is flat and insubstantial – a very unsatisfactory shower experience. Low-flow showerheads solve this problem by forcing the water into a narrower opening, which reduces the amount of water that comes out, but maintains the pressure at 80 psi for a nice strong stream. (It’s like partially blocking the end of a hose with your thumb to increase the force of the water coming out – except that low-flow faucets and showerheads reduce the size of the stream only a little, just enough to maintain existing pressure with less water.)

Low-flow faucet accessories work the same way.

There are two different kinds of low-flow faucets and showerheads:

  • Aerating faucet accessories and showerheads mix air into the water stream for steady pressure. The steady stream sensation is very popular with consumers. However, mixing air into the water can lead to a reduction in water temperature, which can be a drawback for showers during the winter months.
  • Non-aerating faucet accessories and showerheads don’t mix air into the water, which results in a pulse-like rather than a steady-state stream. Not everyone likes the pulse effect, but those who do say it feels like a gentle massage. Non-aerating faucet accessories and showerheads maintain water temperature very well.

How can you tell if you need a low-flow faucet or showerhead?

The EPA standard for new residential lavatory (bathroom) faucets is 1.5 GPM (gallons per minute). Your current faucet may have an aerator on it already, and if it does, it will have the GPM stamped on the side. If the GPM of your existing aerator is greater than 1.5, you should upgrade to a new high-efficiency faucet aerator. If you don’t have an aerator, check to see if the inside of your faucet has threads (grooves) for an aerator to be screwed into it. If it does, install an aerator.

If you already have a low-flow showerhead, check the side of the showerhead to see if it has a flow rate of 2.0 GPM (the new EPA standard for showers). If you don’t already have a low-flow showerhead, you can test your shower to see if its flow rate is too high. Put a two-quart saucepan on the floor of the shower and position it in the middle of the shower stream. Turn the shower on at full pressure and count how many seconds it takes to fill the pan. If it takes fewer than 15 seconds, you would probably benefit from a high-efficiency showerhead.

How much water will a high-efficiency faucet or showerhead save?

It depends on how much water your sink or shower used before you installed the upgrade. The only way to know for sure is to check your utility bills over the next few months and compare them to the same time period during the previous year. If you want to feel good about your decision right away, you can get a rough estimate as follows: assume that your current showerhead uses 2.5 GPM (this is a very common flow rate for modern showerheads). A new 1.5 GPM showerhead will make your shower 40% more efficient. Use your utility bill to calculate 20% of your total water usage (this is the amount typically used for showering), then take 40% of that number. Multiply this by your cost-per-gallon, and you’ll have your savings!

How do I find high-efficiency faucet accessories and showerheads?

When you go to your local plumbing supply store, look for the EPA WaterSense label. This is the equivalent of the EnergyStar label, and all products bearing this label meet the new EPA water use guidelines.

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We’re Grateful for Central Heating and Indoor Plumbing

Thursday, November 25th, 2010

The holiday season is upon us again – a time for celebrating with family and friends, and remembering our many blessings.

Of course, the most important of these are the love of our family and friends and the food that nourishes us. We hope these blessings are shared by all our customers.Baby Sleeping By Fire in a Comfortable Home With Central Heating

As the weather gets colder, we are grateful, too, for the comfort of our homes. It’s worth remembering that even the simplest of our modern homes are full of luxuries that people of centuries past could not even have imagined.

Take central heating, for example, which did not become widespread until the 20th century (although it was actually invented by the Romans). Here in the New World, early European settlers emulated the practices of the Native Americans, heating their homes with an open indoor fire and keeping out the cold with brightly-woven mats and furs. The houses stayed surprisingly warm during the winter (sometimes getting as hot as 90 degrees F, especially in the wigwams, which were better insulated than the colonists’ dwellings). But tending the fire was a tedious, time-consuming, dirty, and somewhat dangerous task – and as anyone who has ever made breakfast over a campfire will tell you, cooking three meals a day over an open flame was very challenging.

Indoor plumbing is another invention that early natives and settlers could not have imagined (although again, it had been invented long before by the ingenious Romans). During the long and arduous voyage to the New World, European colonists relieved themselves by sitting on shelves that jutted out over the sides of the ship; when they reached the New World, they simply went outdoors to do their business, even in the dead of winter. Even outhouses were luxuries in the early years. Baths were uncommon (sometimes a once-a-year event) and were not taken at all on board ship. When colonists did wash, they did so in a nearby stream or pond.

So, the next time you press a button on your thermostat to turn on the heat, or flush your toilet, or take a nice warm shower, or cook a meal on a temperature-controlled oven – give thanks!

We’re grateful for the opportunity to help you keep your home warm, safe, and comfortable. Our customers are one of the many blessings for which we are thankful – now and all year long.

Happy Thanksgiving to all.

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Halloween Treat – $100 Off a New Sump Pump With Battery Backup

Thursday, October 28th, 2010

What’s scarier than a cold and stormy Halloween night?

A cold and stormy Halloween night when the power cuts out and the water starts to rise in your basement!

Fortunately, we’ve got just the right solution – at a real treat of a price.

A storm passing through a neighborhood

A sump pump keeps your basement dry when a storm comes through your neighborhood!

If your basement regularly gets damp or flooded, eventually it’s going to start looking and smelling like one of those musty old basements in a cheap horror movie. Sump pumps are a great way to protect your home and maximize its usable area.

A battery backup system makes sure that your sump pump works when you need it most – during and after major storms. Battery backup doesn’t add much to the cost of a sump pump – and the peace of mind it gives you is priceless!

Get $100 off a new sump pump with battery backup!

P.S. Happy Halloween, everyone. Have fun and stay safe!

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It’s Easy to Prevent Burst Pipes This Winter

Wednesday, October 20th, 2010

Burst pipes are expensive, destructive, and…preventable.

Most people know that they need to winterize the plumbing in a camp or vacation home to keep it from freezing over the winter and bursting the pipes. But you also need to winterize the plumbing in your primary residence, even if you’re going to stay there all winter.

A burst pipe - what you want to avoid this winter

Burst pipes - easier to avoid than you think!

This is really one of those situations where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure – and the prevention is easy.

The right pro-active maintenance will keep your home’s pipes warm and cozy all winter, so that you and your possessions stay comfortable and DRY!

Here’s how you do it:

1. Insulate exposed pipes

Check to see if you have exposed piping in un-insulated spaces such as a crawlspace, attic, outside walls, etc.

If you have exposed piping, you should insulate the pipes. The materials are inexpensive and the task doesn’t require a high level of DIY skill. However, it does require patience and care to ensure that pipes are completely covered.

There are a number of different options for insulating pipes. You can wrap regular fiberglass attic insulation around pipes, but an easier alternative is the foam or fiberglass tubing (also called “tubular sleeve insulation”) that is made specifically for pipes. You should look for insulation with an R-4 rating (most standard 5/8 foam tubes have this rating).

Whatever insulation you use, make sure you begin by removing any dirt or grease from the pipes with a rag and mild cleanser. Allow the pipes to dry thoroughly before wrapping them with insulation. Make sure you cover the pipe completely, taking extra care at corners wherever two sleeves or pieces of insulation meet. Wrap these areas with duct tape to seal them completely.

(Always use duct tape to secure the insulation to your pipes. Other forms of tape, like masking or electrical, will stretch or break over time. You’ll lose the integrity of your seal, and eventually you’ll have to tape the pipes all over again.)

If you have pipes that have frozen in past winters, or pipes in spaces that will fall below zero, you may wish to consider using heating tape. It is a plastic strip with heating elements embedded in it that can be wrapped around pipes and plugged in. Heating tape is easy to install and can be purchased in most hardware stores. While it is effective, it can be expensive to operate and so should only be used when regular insulation is not enough.

Note: When you’re looking for exposed pipes to insulate, focus on pipes where the water comes in, not pipes where the water drains. Drain pipes – except for the traps beneath sinks, tubs, and showers – generally do not hold enough water to cause damage if frozen.

2. Caulk outside pipes

Caulk around pipes where they enter your house from the outside. There are lots of different types of caulk, so check with your plumber or local hardware store to find out which type will be best for your home.

3. Shut off and drain exterior faucets (or insulate them)

First, go down to your basement and locate the shut-off valve for each exterior faucet. Turn the valve so that the water supply is shut off. Then, go outside and turn the faucet on, so that any remaining water drains out of the faucet. (You can leave the faucet in the on position all winter.)

Not all faucets have a separate shut-off valve in the basement. Check with your plumber if you’re unsure.

If you can’t shut off and drain your exterior faucets, you should insulate them. The easiest, most attractive, and most effective way to insulate them is with molded foam insulating covers. These are available at most hardware stores.

And…don’t forget to drain your hoses and bring them inside for the winter! You should also drain and shut down your sprinkler system (follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

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